wheels

Road Tubeless - What’s it like then? - Part 1, In the beginning….

Ed's been riding road tubeless, here's his first impression :

Having read all about tubeless for MTB and road, I’ve been keen to try it out for myself for a while now. When the opportunity arose to get myself a new pair of wheels I talked it over with Fraser and agreed this was the perfect opportunity.

I had already settled on a pair of Hope RS Mono hubs and Fraser recommended Pacenti rims and Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tyres. My spec for the spokes was “I want shiney ones” and he duly obliged. No idea what they are but there are 28 per wheel and they meet my spec.

 

I had to spec 25mm width tyres of course or the fashion police would have been on to me but alas they have become so popular that after waiting a couple of months for them to still not come into stock I went with 23mm. Funny thing is that when you fit them to the Pacenti SL23 rims the tyres end up measuring 25mm across anyway.

Fraser built the wheels and I love them, so, thanks a million. He also fitted the tyres. I will let him explain how this went but to me this is still no job for a rank amature like me. Apparently the back went on a treat but the front was a bit more troublesome….and you need a compressor to get them to seat properly...and a special valve...and the right kind of rim tape...and you have to put sealant in them too. Apart from that they are a doddle!

After all that they finally went on the bike...along with a new chain and cassette but only because the ones I had were done….and most importantly, I think they look fab...especially if it’s sunny...which it is now and again.

 

So what are they like to ride then? As Del Boy would say “lovely jubbly”!

I’ve been out twice now, done over 100 miles and although it’s still very early days I love them. I’m running at 90 psi so 10 psi below what I run normally and the comfort has improved considerably. Apparently I can go down a few more psi if I want but I’ll do a few more rides first. They are great for rough tarmac and really smooth things out. Obviously a big hit is still a big hit but for what passes for “normal” tarmac around these parts they are just what the doctor ordered.

The tyres are holding up well and not cutting up as much as the normal soft compound tyres I usually ride. I’m no demon descender but grip has been excellent so far but unusually for this time of year the roads have been bone dry so wet weather performance has still to be tried….and no punctures. As for weight, well I’m not obsessive about that so don’t have any figures but the wheels are lively and responsive and any performance issues I have can be attributed to the engine.

So, so far so great! I’ll be back in a couple of weeks for an update but for now it’s a big thumbs up from me.

 

Tubeless tyre pressure

Something i don't think enough people re-enforce is the correct tyre pressure to use when running tubeless.The clever blokes over at Stans quote this on the matter :

To determine a starting tubeless tyre pressure when running a ZTR rim use this simple formula: Rider Weight in pounds divided by 7 = x x - 1 = Front tyre pressure in PSI x + 2 = Rear tyre pressure in PSI

Example: 185lb rider (13 stone or 84kg) 185/7 = 26.4 Front tyre pressure: 26 - 1 = 25 PSI Rear tyre pressure: 26 + 2 = 28 PSI

Their road pressure recommendations are listed below and this is ONLY with an appropriate Road Tubeless tyre such as the Schwalbe 1:

< 60 kg / 130 lb = 5,5 bars / 80 psi

65 - 75 kg / 140 - 165 lb = 6 - 7 bars / 87 - 101 psi

> 80 kg / 185 lb = 7,5 bars - 8 bars / 108-116 psi

I would also recommend starting 10psi less than this and see how you get on (Stan says the same BTW).

For reference all Stans No Tubes rims carry a sticker stating their Max pressure, this does not apply if you put a tube in, in that case note the max pressure stated on the tyre.

If you have any query regarding pressure for other rim manufacturers then drop me a line and I'll fill you in with the necessary info.

PowerTap

If you're serious about your training then the new PowerTap GS Hub is the power meter you need.

The best of both worlds: with the expertise of power measurement which can only come with 15+ years of experience, PowerTap looked to DT Swiss and their renowned reputation for quality and performance to join efforts in creating the PowerTap GS.

Utilizing a straight pull hub shell, the GS features DT Swiss Ratchet System technology, press fit assembly with contact-free seals, bearings and exchangeable rotor body. Everything you’d expect from a DT Swiss hub, but the GS also houses PowerTap electronics, which provide you with power accuracy of +/- 1.5%. Industry-standard power accuracy wrapped up in a bomb-proof hub shell. With ideal strength to weight ratio and straight-pull spoke technology, you’ll get a stiffer, more responsive, and better riding wheel.

Features:

  • DT Swiss 240 straight pull hub shell
  • 24 hole drilling
  • DT Swiss bearings
  • Shimano/SRAM or Campy compatible
  • 320 grams rear / 107 grams front
  • Power accuracy of +/- 1.5%
  • Field-serviceable electronics

Available in 24 hole only

£829 (hub only)

Contact me to discuss wheel builds using this hub.

PowerTap GS Hub

Suggested builds

These are my suggested build options to get you started, they cover builds for most people in most situations. If you are more of a Passista than a Racing Snake then things will need to be beefed up a bit and likewise if you weigh less than an empty crisp packet and want to go lighter/less spokes then on your own head be it. Before I build you anything we'll have a good chat about what is going to be built and why.

All wheels are built by hand by me, they are stressed, bedded in and tweaked until they settle into their finished state.
Leadtime is currently a week to 10 days depending on the build required.

Drop me an email to get current prices and answers to your questions:: wheelhouse@thehappycog.co.uk

CX

Disc

Hubs
  • Hope Pro 2 Evo 28/32
  • Shimano CX75 (center lock only) 28/32
Rims
  • H+ Sons Archetype
  • Stans NoTubes ZTR Iron Cross
  • Stans NoTubes ZTR Alpha 400
  • Stans NoTubes ZTR Grail 700c Disc
Spokes
  • Sapim Race Silver - For Black add .35p per spoke
Lacing
  • 3 cross Front and 3 Cross Rear
Nipps
  • Sapim Brass silver - For Black add £9

Approx weight for a pair of H+ Sons Archetype on Hope Pro2 Evo is 1885g laced 3 cross 32 hole only.

Rim brake

Hubs
  • Hope Mono 28/32
  • Shimano Dura Ace 9000 28/32
  • Shimano Ultegra 6800
  • Campagnolo Centaur
Rims
  • H+ Sons Archetype
  • Stans NoTubes ZTR Alpha 400
Spokes
  • Sapim Laser and Race (drive side rear only) Silver - For Black add .35p per spoke
Lacing
  • 2 cross Front (Radial can be done if you're a racing snake < 72kg ) and 3 Cross Rear
Nipps
  • Sapim Brass silver - For Black add £9

MTB (all disc)

26, 650, 29

XC race

Hubs
  • Hope Pro 2 Evo
  • Shimano XTR (Center Lock)
  • DT Swiss 240 (CL or 6 bolt)
  • DT Swiss 350 (CL or 6 bolt)
Rims
  • Stans NoTubes ZTR Crest
  • American Classic 101
  • DT Swiss EX 500 SBWT
  • Mavic XC 717
Spokes
  • Sapim Race or D-Light Silver - For Black add .35p per spoke
Lacing
  • 2 cross front and 3 cross rear
Nipps
  • Sapim Brass silver - For Black add £9

'nduro

Hubs
  • Hope Pro 2 Evo
  • Shimano XTR (Center Lock)
  • DT Swiss 240 (CL or 6 bolt)
  • DT Swiss 350 (CL or 6 bolt)
Rims
  • Stans NoTubes ZTR Flow EX
  • DT Swiss EX 500 SBWT
  • Mavic EN 521 disk
Spokes
  • Sapim Race or D-Light Silver - For Black add .35p per spoke
Lacing
  • 3 cross front and rear
Nipps
  • Sapim Brass silver - For Black add £9

Doonhill

Hubs
  • Hope Pro 2 Evo
  • Shimano Saint
  • DT Swiss 240 (CL or 6 bolt)
Rims
  • Stans NoTubes ZTR Flow EX
  • DT Swiss FR 600
  • Mavic EX 729
  • Mavic EX 823
Spokes
  • Sapim Race or D-Light Silver - For Black add .35p per spoke
Lacing
  • 3 cross front and rear
Nipps
  • Sapim Brass silver - For Black add £9